Urban Plot Design Academy: Where should the patio go?

Put the main patio where it best supports the way you will actually use the garden. That may be beside the house, but it is not automatically the right answer. A sunny position farther down the garden can be better for relaxed sitting, while a small terrace near the doors and a second seating area can solve two genuinely different needs.

My practitioner view is to give convenience more weight than homeowners often expect, especially for the main dining area. Carrying food, plates and drinks across wet paving or lawn soon becomes tiresome. However, I would not build a large, permanently shaded terrace simply because it is outside the back door. In that situation, a modest threshold terrace with a sunnier destination can be the better use of space.

Before drawing the patio, note when you want to sit outside, observe where the sun and shade fall, map the routes you use and place the actual furniture on the ground. The RHS recommends recording the existing garden, sunlight and practical uses before settling a plan. That simple observation is more reliable than choosing a position from an attractive photograph.

Start with what you will do outside

A patio for weekday breakfasts has a different job from one used for weekend lunches, evening drinks or supervising children. Write down the activities that matter, the likely time of day and how many people normally need a seat. Design for regular life first, not the largest gathering you might host once a year.

Dining generally benefits from a direct, firm route to the kitchen. Lounging can tolerate a longer walk if the destination offers better sun, shelter or outlook. A barbecue or outdoor cooking area needs sensible access without forcing the cook into a narrow circulation route.

The RHS advises that movement and the places where people sit, work and play should shape a garden layout. In practice, this means drawing the routes before filling the plan with paving, lawn and beds.

• List the two or three outdoor activities you expect to do most often.

• Record the usual number of seats rather than planning only for parties.

• Note the time of day each activity is likely to happen.

• Include everyday routes to bins, sheds, taps, gates, play areas and washing lines.

• Decide which activity needs to be close to the house and which could sit farther away.

When a patio beside the house works best

A patio beside the house is usually the most practical choice for frequent outdoor dining. It shortens the route from the kitchen, makes loose furniture easier to bring out and allows the space to act as an extension of the main living area.

This position is particularly useful in a family garden where adults want to sit close to the house while keeping a clear view of children. It can also make sense where the garden is very short and moving the patio away would create an awkward strip of unused ground between the doors and seating.

The trade-off is that the house may cast shade across the patio for much of the day, particularly at the back of a north-facing property. A large terrace here can feel cold and visually heavy. It may also consume the part of a small garden that is most visible from inside.

Keep the patio by the house when convenience is central and the light is acceptable at the times you will use it. Do not keep it there merely because an old patio already occupies the spot.

When a sunny patio farther into the garden is worth it

Moving the sitting area away from the house can make sense when the far end receives the useful afternoon or evening sun, has better shelter, or provides a more pleasant outlook. It is often effective in a long garden because the destination gives a reason to move through the plot rather than viewing everything from the back door.

The extra walk needs to earn its place. A distant dining table can look appealing on plan but prove inconvenient once every meal involves carrying crockery, cushions and food along the garden. For a relaxed bench, two chairs or a lounging area, that inconvenience is usually less important.

Give the route equal attention to the destination. It should remain usable after rain and should not cut through the middle of another activity area. The route can be direct without being visually harsh: planting beside it, a slight change in direction or a framed view can help it sit naturally in the garden.

A patio at the sunny end also needs a reason to feel settled. A bare paved square against the rear fence can feel exposed. Planting to the sides, a tree canopy where appropriate, a hedge or a simple structure can provide enclosure without blocking the sun you moved there to enjoy.

When two seating areas make sense

Two seating areas work when they have different jobs. A small terrace outside the house might hold a café table or provide space to step out with a drink, while a second area catches evening sun and holds the main lounge seating. Another garden may keep dining near the kitchen and place a quiet bench among planting farther down.

The main risk is duplication. Two undersized paved areas, each trying to fit the same table and chairs, rarely improve a small garden. They add hard landscaping and routes while reducing planting or lawn. If both areas would be used at the same time for the same purpose, one well-positioned patio is normally the stronger decision.

My preference in a small or medium garden is to establish one clearly useful main area first. I add a second only when its light, view or purpose is genuinely different. The smaller area does not always need to be a formal patio; gravel, brick, stepping stones or a compact level platform may be enough, subject to the site and construction requirements.

• Give each area a clear use, such as dining near the house and evening lounging in the sun.

• Make one area the obvious main space rather than creating two equal paved rectangles.

• Connect them with a route that feels deliberate and remains usable in normal weather.

• Check that the second area does not take away the best planting space simply to hold occasional spare chairs.

How to test the patio size before paving

Do not choose the patio size from the table measurement alone. Chairs need to pull back, people need to pass, doors need to open and a route may need to continue through the space. The right allowance depends on the furniture, the number of users and what sits around the patio, so a universal dimension is not a sound basis for a final plan.

Mark the proposed edge with a hose, string, chalk or temporary stakes. Put the real table and chairs in position if possible. If you have not bought them, make full-size paper or cardboard footprints, or use boxes and garden chairs to represent them.

Pull every chair out as someone would when sitting down. Walk behind occupied chairs while carrying a tray. Open the back door, storage doors and gates. Add the barbecue, planters or parasol base you expect to keep there. Then look from the house and assess how much of the garden remains.

Leave the outline in place for several days. Use the route, watch the shadows and consider the view in poor weather as well as sunshine. It is much easier to move a hose than to wish a finished patio were half a metre wider in one direction and smaller in another.

• Mark the full paved outline on the ground.

• Place the actual furniture or full-size substitutes inside it.

• Pull out chairs and test movement around occupied seats.

• Check every door, gate and regular route.

• Add stored items such as a barbecue, parasol base or outdoor box.

• View the marked area from the kitchen and main living room.

• Reduce it if the paving overwhelms the remaining garden.

Should dining and lounging stay together?

Keeping dining and lounging together is efficient. One route, one area of paving and one social space can serve several uses. It is often the sensible answer in a compact garden, provided the furniture fits without making the whole area feel like storage.

Separating them can improve a larger or longer garden when the activities want different conditions. Dining may need kitchen access and some shade at lunchtime, while lounging may benefit from the last evening sun. Separation can also give the garden more depth by drawing attention away from the house.

Avoid dividing the garden simply to create more features. If the two areas are only a few steps apart and share the same light, outlook and purpose, the split may create awkward leftover spaces. One generous patio softened with planting is likely to work better.

Use the view from indoors

The patio will be seen from inside for more hours than it is occupied, particularly through autumn and winter. Stand at the kitchen sink, dining table, sofa and main doors. A large empty paved surface can dominate these views, while a patio edged or partly screened by planting can feel connected to the rest of the garden.

The answer is not to hide the seating completely. A partial view of a bench, table or planted pot can draw the eye out. Positioning the patio slightly off the central axis may preserve a longer view into planting, but forcing it to one side can also create an impractical route. Test both the view and the movement rather than prioritising one in isolation.

Planting should soften the edges without making the furniture unusable. Beds need enough room to sustain the chosen plants, and thorny, floppy or heavily overhanging growth is best kept away from the main circulation line. Containers can help where space is tight, though they require regular care and should not be used to compensate for an area that was paved too extensively.

What changes in a north-facing garden

At the back of a north-facing house, the area immediately outside may receive limited direct sun, while a section farther from the building can be brighter. The exact pattern depends on the height and position of the house, boundaries, trees and neighbouring buildings, so aspect alone cannot choose the patio for you.

Observe the garden at the times you want to use it. If the sunny area is comfortably reached, a split arrangement can work well: keep a modest, practical surface at the threshold and put the main relaxed seating in the brighter part of the plot.

Do not chase a narrow patch of sun at the expense of every other consideration. Sun moves, shade changes through the year and a fully exposed seat may be too hot or glaring on some days. Convenient shade can be valuable for lunch, young children and anyone who prefers cooler conditions.

What changes in a long, narrow garden

A single patio spanning the full width beside the house can make a long garden feel like paving followed by a corridor. Reducing its width, offsetting one edge or allowing planting to come closer to the house can create a more gradual transition.

A destination farther down can make good use of the length, particularly when it catches better light or sits near an attractive existing tree or boundary. Avoid placing it as a flat rectangle pressed against the end fence. Some planting behind or beside the seating usually gives a stronger sense of depth and enclosure.

Routes in narrow gardens need discipline. A path that repeatedly crosses the available width can leave small, difficult planting pockets. Gentle changes of direction may work, but they should correspond to views, entrances or destinations rather than forming decorative wiggles.

What changes in a family garden

For a family garden, visibility and circulation often matter more than finding the single sunniest point. The main sitting area should allow adults to see the parts of the garden where children regularly play, without placing a busy route straight through the table and chairs.

Keep space for play based on what is actually used. A lawn does not have to fill the centre by habit, but replacing useful play space with a large patio can leave the garden less flexible. Equally, an oversized lawn with a cramped dining corner may not reflect how the household spends time outside.

Storage, taps, bins, gates and sheds need clear access. Draw those movements on the plan before choosing the patio edge. A layout that works only when no one is seated is not resolved.

Check levels, thresholds and water before committing

Patio position cannot be separated from levels. A sunny spot may require steps, retaining work or substantial ground preparation. A terrace beside the house must meet the existing doors and building sensibly without creating a water problem. These issues can alter the layout and should be investigated before materials are ordered.

Look at the garden during and after heavy rain. Note where water gathers, where it runs and whether the proposed route stays usable. Do not assume that replacing lawn or soil with paving is a neutral change.

Construction details, drainage, retaining elements and work close to buildings should be assessed for the actual property. Seek advice from a suitably experienced garden designer, landscape contractor, drainage specialist or other relevant professional where levels, thresholds, unstable ground, significant trees or persistent water are involved. This guide helps with layout thinking; it is not a construction specification.

• Where does water sit after sustained rain?

• Does water move towards or away from the house?

• Would steps interrupt the main route?

• Can furniture stand level without extensive retaining work?

• Are tree roots, inspection covers, drains or services likely to affect the position?

• Can the proposed surface be built without creating awkward edges or unusable strips?

A simple patio position worksheet

Sketch the garden as it exists, including the house, doors, windows, boundaries, trees, sheds, drains, changes of level and any features that must remain. It does not need to be a polished drawing, but the measurements and positions should be dependable.

On separate copies, test three arrangements: the main patio beside the house, the main patio in the best usable sun, and a small threshold terrace with a second destination. Place the same furniture on each plan so the comparison is fair.

Score each option against the points below, then inspect the two strongest choices on the ground. A high score does not replace judgement, but it exposes compromises that are easy to miss when looking at paving in isolation.

• Convenience from the kitchen and main doors

• Sun or shade at the times you want to sit outside

• A clear route to gates, bins, sheds and play space

• Enough room for real furniture and movement

• A pleasant view from the main indoor rooms

• Useful garden space left for planting, lawn or play

• Shelter and privacy without excessive enclosure

• Practical levels, thresholds and water management

• A distinct reason for any second seating area

Common questions about patio position

Does a patio have to be next to the house? No. It can sit elsewhere if better light, shelter or outlook justifies the route. For frequent dining, however, the convenience of being near the kitchen deserves serious weight.

How big should a patio be for six people? There is no reliable universal size. It depends on the exact table, chair type, how far the chairs pull back, surrounding walls or planting, door swings and any route through the space. Test the full furniture arrangement at ground level before fixing the edge.

Where should a patio go in a north-facing garden? Compare the practical threshold area with the brighter parts farther from the house. A small terrace near the doors and a second sunny seating area often deserves testing, but the actual shadow pattern, route and levels should decide it.

Can a small garden have two seating areas? Yes, if they perform different jobs and remain properly usable. A compact dining terrace and a small evening bench can work; two competing patios that squeeze out planting usually do not.

When the patio decision needs a full garden plan

The patio affects nearly every other part of the layout: routes, planting depth, lawn or play space, views, levels and drainage. If each decision keeps moving another one, treating the patio as an isolated purchase is unlikely to resolve the garden.

A full garden design can compare positions at scale, test furniture and circulation, and coordinate the hard landscaping with planting. This is particularly useful in small plots, where a modest change to one edge can determine whether the rest of the garden feels balanced or cramped.

If the patio decision is holding up the whole garden, Urban Plot can test it as part of a site-specific garden layout, including full garden design and small-space design.

The best patio position is not automatically the nearest or the sunniest. It is the place where useful light, everyday access, comfortable movement and the wider garden work together.

For most small and medium gardens, I would start by testing one properly sized main patio close enough to the house to be convenient. I would move it farther away only when the improvement in sun, shelter or outlook is strong enough to justify the route. I would split the seating only when each area has a distinct purpose.

Mark the options on the ground, place the furniture at full size and live with the outlines for a few days. That modest pause is far more useful than trying to correct the position after the paving has been laid.